When we crossed the Ohio River on an old metal bridge from Ravenswood, West Virginia, my heart leapt with excitement. It did indeed feel like I was returning to a place where my DNA knew it belonged. My cells, each nucleus, were being pulled like a magnet to a land that was part of who I was, even if I knew I wasn't all that much a part of it. A place that for me would forever hold a grandma who gave squishy hugs and a grandpa who had his own private stash of ginger ale, which he'd share with us kids while ignoring my mother's half-hearted protests. Where cousins whom I barely knew but with whom I instantly felt a kinship had the same grandma as me and, with an odd familiarity, called my mom Aunt Judy. Where life carried on in an orderly way because grown up people seemed to know what they were doing and so kids could just be kids and bang on the Hammond organ trying out all the cool sound effects, or lay on the hammock reading comic books, or create plays or dress up in grandma's clothes, and never ever get in trouble. A grandfather clock chimed softly each hour to let you know time was passing exactly as it should.
And finally, we were there! But the Ohio I was used to seeing was the west, flat side. We always came in at Cincinnati, where north of town the hills of Kentucky smoothed out like a fitted sheet for miles. This time, my husband, Keaton the dog and I came in from the foothills of the Appalachians, which continued rolling merrily along, woodsy and hilly, all the way to Athens, our destination about an hour away.
It was a beautiful college campus -- in fact, the first university in the Northwest Territory, founded in 1803 -- with green lawns, majestic trees, and old stone and brick buildings. As we drove into town, we headed straight for a college bar -- not because we were in desperate need of a drink, though I did promptly order a beer -- but because my husband's friend of 30 years whom we were coming to see was playing a gig. The joint wasn't hard to find, since the strip of restaurants and bars across from the university was only a few blocks long. Yet, it had a friendly character of mostly locally owned shops, and I had the feeling it hadn't changed too much in appearance despite a cultural revolution in the world and students that now filled its streets. As it turns out, two of my aunts and one of my uncles went to school here.
The band played R&B to a rowdy crowd of alumni in town for some event. On the break, I met John, my husband's guitarist friend, who had that Midwestern straight-up niceness. He gave us the keys to his house and told us to stay as long as we'd like. I am not one to enjoy staying at a stranger's home, and my husband and I had a pre-arranged agreement that we'd stay one night and then shove off. But once we got to their house, I immediately felt at home. Though John's wife was out of town till the next afternoon, photos of her smiling warming surrounded by family drew me to her, and her quilts on our bed and about the house, and her inviting art room in the room next to ours, made me sure we'd hit it off. And we did, so we stayed a second night.
The town was well-kept with quaint older homes on hilly streets. John and Suzanne lived not 5 minutes from campus, in the hills to the east of town where they had five acres, a large garden guarded by towering sunflowers, an empty historic log cabin idly passing the time, and an energetic German shepherd puppy named Pinky. They both had public service jobs, he at the university involved with health care for kids and she at the public television station doing education outreach for kids. (See? Good people. My parents seemed to be right.)
As we drove around town and ate at an incredible restaurant that served locally grown, organic foods, and visited the farmer's market where we stocked up on organic grapes and berries, banana bread and homemade jellies, and as we visited a coffee shop that supported a local sustainable farming initiative, and passed by the quilt barn where art shows are held, I imagined myself slipping into this life as easily as climbing into a familiar bed. John and Suzanne knew people every place we went; we constantly ran into other musicians and quilters and a friend who made maple syrup or was a beekeeper or artist. It was a hip town with agrarian roots. Yes, I think I could live here. (If they didn't have winter.)
After a couple of days, we headed west about 40 miles, taking meandering back roads lined with white clapboard houses behind sprawling mowed lawns, to a park called Hocking Hills where eons ago glaciers cut out caves in the limestone. We camped two nights there, spending a full day hiking the caves and resting in the pools and waterfalls where butterflies darted about so colorfully, I thought I might have time-traveled right into a Disney animated meadow. (Was Walt also from Ohio?)
From Hocking Hills, we decided to go up to Lake Erie, driving north along narrow, hilly roads, through a summer storm that helped break the humidity. I wanted to go through Newark, the town in Licking County east of Columbus where my grandfather had grown up on a farm. That farm, though I've never seen it, seems to call to me. No one else in my family is interested in the farm girl life, even my citified, backyard garden version. I have my Great-grandma Ada's quilts that she made while on that Newark farm where she raised five kids, and often as I snuggle under its cottony sheen, I imagine her fingers pulling the needle through the patchwork again and again, and I wonder if she ever imagined it would be treasured by a great-grandchild she barely knew who one day would grow up to be nearing fifty and longing to know her.
As it turns out, my Dad later told me, it was just about then, just as I was thinking those thoughts as we sped away from Newark, that we passed right by what once had been the family farm. Where no matter what it had become and no matter where I go, I will in some way always belong.
I kind of know that feeling. I'm always curious about the farm my grandma grew up on. My mom even worked on it when she was younger. I know where it is, I've seen it, but I've never really been to it. And it's still in the family. Though I suspect it's pretty different now. Maybe I will explore it someday.
ReplyDeleteThis all sounds so heavenly and lovely with a twinge of bittersweet pangs - especially the part about your great-grandma's quilt. I LOVE the first photo, too!
ReplyDeleteRoots, to know from where we are coming from ... in a way, it helps to understand who we are. My grand parents were born in Poland, i went there 2 years ago to meet the country. I was walking in street and looking at people to see it i had some similarities with them... strange feelings... I like the third picture!
ReplyDeleteI love hearing about my state from someone elses perspective! We head down to Hocking Hills at least twice a year. My neighbors daughter is there at Athens as well and sometimes we zip over to buy her a meal or she comes to stay with us a night at the cabin. That area of Ohio is stunning...as now you can attest to!
ReplyDeleteI agree with you on the feeling of kinship. When Boo and I were ordering ice cream and I was telling her how MY Grandpa and I would stop and get some when I was her age, I could see the young guy waiting on us wondering what they heck us obvious out of towners were talking about. Too many years have passed to have anyone probably know the family name. All of the auld ones are gone. But I almost wanted to tell him..."yeah, we're here visiting the farm I own down on 155."
Love them roots.
YOU can come stay at my farm when I build a place.
:-)
Lovely post. My roots are here in Texas, but a bit closer to the Red River where I grew up. Going to my grandparents' always feels like home.
ReplyDeleteI love that feeling. Thanks for sharing your story and the pics. The one of the people on the rock (boulder)and beneath the other is incredible!
ReplyDeleteOh, I had one of those maiden names too!
ReplyDeleteI have never wanted to go to Ohio, because until now, I have never heard anyone talk about it. You make it sound lovely. It is nice to have roots.
Every state, like every Canadian province has its distinct charms, by the sounds of it. Ohio sounds a bit like where I live now, with its orderly farms and green lawns. It also sounds like Southern Ontario, which of course, it is just south of.
ReplyDeleteAnyway, I like how you write about how being there made you feel. For years after I left my hometown I wanted to return, to live there. I missed being where my roots were so well established, but it was not to be. Finally, I came to a place in my mind where I believed that because I was born in Nelson, loved growing up there, that I would always be a part of it and it would always be a part of me - but that I didn't have to live there to know that. It was kind of freeing because then I could be content with wherever I was living. I hope that makes sense.
Can't wait to hear what you have to say about Lake Erie.
ReplyDeleteMy sister lives in Germantown Ohio and I visit at least twice a year. I take the backroads from the Indiana State line to avoid the Dayton/Cincinnati expressway traffic and it is some truly beautiful country. And the german influence on the architecture and decorations is very strong.
ReplyDeleteThank you once again for an amazing travelogue. I love your travels.
♥Spot